Cheers! Na zdraví! на здоров’я! Prost! ¡Salud! Kippis! Skål!

Well, you get the idea! Making new friends and reconnecting with old ones over a couple of drinks seems to be a near universal tradition. No matter where you go, it’s easy to find a local bar/pub/backyard to grab a cold one. But what you’re drinking can vary as widely as what you’re cheering when you clink glasses. I kept a journal as we traveled, jotting down all the delicious and down-right disgusting drinks we tried along the way so I could bring them all to you! Keep in mind, this isn’t meant to be much of a guide of what to drink as you travel, it’s more a peek at some of the fun you can have with a broad palate and an open mind So without further ado, get ready for a journey around Europe in (not quite) 80 drinks!
☰ Drinks

Norway

As one of the first stops on our trip it seems only fitting that we begin with the magic of Aquavit! I first spoke about this smooth yet spicy spirit way back when we met Nathanael’s relatives in Oslo, Siv and Terje. This particular brand, Linie Aquavit is matured in sherry casks which are sailed across the equator twice. In theory the movement of the waves, saltiness of the air, and whatnot ages and flavours the aquavit.

Linie Aquavit Photo by Bruce Turner

At a Glance:

Name: Linie Aquavit

Alcohol Content: 41.5%

Aesthetic: Clear, golden colour

Flavour: Light, smooth, spicy

When, Where, Who: November 8, 2013 in Oslo with Siv and Terje

Thoughts: 4/5, Pretty good!

Poland

Walking into a Polish liquor store can leave you dizzy with their selection of flavoured vodkas, how do you choose?! They have been distilling for centuries and have vodka down to an art. While wiśniówka (cherry-flavoured) and krupnik (honey vodka) are easy-to-drink and well-worth the hangover, it was Żubrówka that won our hearts. Rye vodka is infused with sweetgrass (specifically, Hierochloe odorata) to bring you a drink that will make you sigh dreamily over your glass. Next time you’re looking in the vodka section of your local liquor store, keep your eyes open for the bison on the label and a blade of grass in the bottle, you won’t be disappointed.

Zubrowka

At a Glance:

Name: Żubrówka

Alcohol Content: 40%

Aesthetic: Very light yellow-green tint

Flavour: Sweet, smooth, grassy

When, Where, Who: May 8, 2014 at Tramp Hostel in Kraków

Thoughts: 5/5, this has become a favourite of ours back home

Razowy Kwas Chlebowy

At a Glance:

Name: Razowy Kwas Chlebowy

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: Similar to Coca-cola

Flavour: Like dark rye or barley malt

When, Where, Who: May 22, 2014 in Sejny, Poland with Ola, John, and Nathanael

Thoughts: 2/5, Not my favourite

Scotland

While we were gallivanting through the Shetland Islands, playing with the ponies and stumbling across old viking settlements, we had the privilege of volunteering at the Baltasound Hotel on Unst. We spent many evenings with our fellow volunteers, Kerry and Isaac, popping into Springer’s Bar (the most northern pub in the UK!) next door and we did our best to work our way through their collection of Scotch whiskies. Fun facts: Scotch is whisky produced in Scotland, Scotch whisky must be aged at least three years in an oak barrel, and there are five distinct categories of Scotch: 1) single malt, 2) single grain, 3) blended malt, 4) blended grain, and 5) blended. Here were our highlights:

Old Pulteney 12 Year

At a Glance:

Name: Old Pulteney, aged 12 Years

Alcohol Content: 40%

Aesthetic: Clear, deep amber

Flavour: Smooth with a nice finish

When, Where, Who: March 5, 2014 at Springer’s Bar, Unst with Kerry and Isaac

Thoughts: 4/5, my favourite of all that we tried

Laphroaig Quarter Cask

At a Glance:

Name: Laphroaig Quarter Cask

Alcohol Content: 48%

Aesthetic: Clear, amber

Flavour: Very smokey and intense

When, Where, Who: March 5, 2014 at Springer’s Bar, Unst with Kerry and Isaac

Thoughts: 2/5, Nathanael’s most and my least favourite

McEwans Export by mountainash

At a Glance:

Name: McEwan’s Export

Alcohol Content: 4.5%

Aesthetic: Dark amber with reddish tones

Flavour: Strong roasted flavour and sweet finish

When, Where, Who: Springer’s Bar, Unst with Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, Pretty good, Nathanael’s favourite is McEwan’s Scotch Ale

Northern Light by Orkney Brewery

At a Glance:

Name: Northern Light

Alcohol Content: 4.0%

Aesthetic: Light, golden

Flavour: Citrus-y, bitter aftertaste

When, Where, Who: Springer’s Bar, Unst with Nathanael

Thoughts: 3.5/5, Pretty good, brewed by the Orkney Brewery

White Wife by Valhalla Brewery

At a Glance:

Name: White Wife

Alcohol Content: 4.5%

Aesthetic: Light, golden

Flavour: Caramel, bitter aftertaste

When, Where, Who: Springer’s Bar, Unst with Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, Brewed by the Valhalla Brewery on Unst!

Irn-Bru by mjtmail

At a Glance:

Name: Irn-Bru

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: Electric orange

Flavour: Orange soda

When, Where, Who: February 12, 2014 in Edinburgh, Scotland with Nathanael

Thoughts: 3/5, Not for me, but you can’t not try this iconic Scottish soda

Czech Republic

So you have found yourself in Czech thinking to yourself, well I can’t pass up trying absinthe, right? Apparently if you’re looking to enjoy the experience, Czech probably isn’t the best place to try it (for some thoughts on that, read here). That being said, it’s hard to escape the allure of absinthe in Prague where it’s advertised in nearly every shop and can be consumed in shots, drinks, ice cream, you name it. My advice is to go for the real experience, distilled absinthe with sugar, an absinthe spoon, and a fountain. We didn’t and I really wish we had, it would have been a very different experience.

Absinthe by Eric Litton (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

At a Glance:

Name: Euphoria Classic Absinth

Alcohol Content: 70%

Aesthetic: Bright, lime green

Flavour: Intense, liqorice, harsh

When, Where, Who: May 1, 2014 at our apartment in Prague with my Mom, Dad, and Katrina

Thoughts: 1/5, Brutal, do not drink as a shot, ever

Becherovka

At a Glance:

Name: Becherovka Original

Alcohol Content: 38%

Aesthetic: Clear, amber

Flavour: Pine needles and gingerbread, a little bit sweet

When, Where, Who: May 2, 2014 in Karlovy Vary

Thoughts: 4/5, Imagine Christmas as a shot

Kozel Svetly

 At a Glance:

Name: Kozel Světlý

Alcohol Content: 4%

Aesthetic: Golden-brown

Flavour: Light and easy-to-drink

When, Where, Who:  May 3, 2014 in Prague (and elsewhere) with Mom

Kutna Hora Vineyards

 At a Glance:

Name:  Vinne Sklepy Müller-Thurgau

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Aesthetic: Very pale

Flavour: Subtle, with a stronger finish

When, Where, Who:  April 30, 2014 in Kutná Hora with Mom and Nathanael

Thoughts: 5/5, Tasty! Grown in a biodynamic farm alongside the Church of St. Barbara in Kutná Hora!

Kofola, By User:Themightyquill (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.0 ]

At a Glance:

Name: Kofola

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: Similar to Coca-cola

Flavour: Sweet, maybe fruity?

When, Where, Who: April 25, 2014 in Prague with Nathanael

Thoughts: 3/5, Not bad, Nat likes Kofola better than Coke

Latvia

Latvia has interesting taste in their drinks! We weren’t sure what to expect as we ventured out from our apartment in Jūrmala to check out the selection of a nearby store. We were recommended the traditional Black Balsam as a starting point. Bitter and herbal, it wasn’t an instant favourite in our books but it’s pretty good in mixed drinks. If you’re feeling spicy, check out Piparu rūgtais for a unique experience you won’t soon forget.

Black Balsam

At a Glance:

Name: Black Balsam

Alcohol Content: 45%

Aesthetic: Thick, dark brown, syrupy

Flavour: Herbal, astringent, bitter aftertaste

When, Where, Who: June 2, 2014 in our Jūrmala apartment

Thoughts: 2/5, Very strong with a bitter aftertaste but not bad mixed with currant juice

Piparu rūgtais

At a Glance:

Name: Piparu rūgtais

Alcohol Content: 35%

Aesthetic: Clear, amber

Flavour: Sweet and spicy!

When, Where, Who: May 31, 2014 in our Jūrmala apartment

Thoughts: 3/5, Very spicy finish similar to black pepper, but not bad!

Bulgaria

Ahhh, Bulgaria, we will always have a soft spot in our hearts for our time in Bulgaria. We volunteered at a hostel in the small town of Malak izvor and spent our days hiking in the idyllic hills surrounding. It goes by a variety of names throughout the Balkans and depending on the flavour, but we were introduced to it as Rakia, a delicious plum liquor. One of our most memorable experiences in Bulgaria was actually over a shot glass of home-made Rakia! While hiking in the woods near Teteven we encountered an older gentleman out for a walk who invited our little group to his nearby home to share drinks of home-brew and some good company.

Enjoying home-brewed Rakia in Teteven

At a Glance:

Name: Rakia

Alcohol Content: 37.5%

Aesthetic: Clear

Flavour: Sweet grape and cinnamon

When, Where, Who: Septemeber 17, 2014 at Little Spring Guesthouse in Malak izvor with Max

Thoughts:  5/5, Delicious! A favourite for Nathanael

Italy

What can I say about Italy that hasn’t already been said elsewhere, likely in a more eloquent and poetic fashion than I could ever manage? Italy is lovely, in so many ways, and we saw some amazing places. My mom and I are big fans of wine, so needless to say we fit right in and here’s a glimpse at just a few of our samplings.

At a Glance:

Name: di Lenardo Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Aesthetic: Bright yellow, clear

Flavour: Tart with a fruity finish

When, Where, Who: April 16, 2015 in the di Lenardo Winery with Mom

Thoughts: 5/5, Our favourite of the wines we tasted, lovely!

At a Glance:

Name: Soave Classico

Alcohol Content: 12%

Aesthetic: Pale yellow

Flavour: Dry, fruity

When, Where, Who: April 15, 2015 in Verona with Mom

Thoughts: 4/5, Lovely!

Hungary

Cycling the streets of Budapest with our couchsurfing host I found myself thinking I was in love. With the evening, the city, the country! Hungary is a special place, one we have repeatedly recommended to friends and family. Something we hadn’t realized prior to visiting is that Hungary is well-known for its beautiful wines and liqueurs! I have listed sweet, golden Tokaj wine below under Slovakia, as that was where we first tried it, but the Tokaj Wine Region within Hungary is actually on the World Heritage List! The Eger region is famous for the delicious “Bull’s Blood of Eger” red wine, so be sure to tour the wine cellars of the “Valley of the Beautiful Women“.

At a Glance:

Egri Bikaver (Bull’s Blood of Eger) by @joefoodie on Flickr

Name: Egri Bikavér

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Aesthetic: Rich red

Flavour: Rich, round, full

When, Where, Who: November 3, 2014 in Tiszaigar with Koby, Klaus, and Mary

Thoughts: 5/5, Amazing, a favourite from the Eger region

At a Glance:

Name: Felső-Magyarország (unfortunately this is all I had written for this entry)

Alcohol Content: 11.5%

Aesthetic: Rich purple

Flavour: Very sweet and berry-like, think blueberries and blackberries

When, Where, Who: November 2, 2014 at our Airbnb in Eger

Thoughts: 4/5, Loved it this first time, but found it a bit too sweet after trying Egri Bikavér

Slovakia

Slovakia! Home to warm, welcoming people, awe-inspiring mountain ranges, and some pretty spectacular castles. It’s a hikers paradise, with the Tatras ranges providing ample opportunities to get lost in the rugged landscape. When you make your way back to civilization be sure to try a shot of slivovica, a particular favourite of Nathanael, and gather with friends to toast with drinks of Tokaj!

At a Glance:

Name: Tokaj

Alcohol Content: about 12%

Aesthetic: Golden yellow

Flavour: Sweet and rich, like plums

When, Where, Who: January 2, 2015 in Nitrianske Rudno with Mario and his family

Thoughts:  4/5, A delicious special occasion wine!

Spain

We visited Spain in the height of summer, so I think it goes without saying that we actively sought out the most refreshing drinks available! Spain is world-famous for its wines and it’s no surprise they have created the perfect drink for cooling off on the patio. Typically a chilled blend of red wine, fresh fruit, and fruit juice, a cool glass of sangria is the perfect way to wind down after a day of exploring the vibrant streets of Barcelona and Madrid. A little less well-known, you can find horchata in market places and it’s a delicious, creamy treat while you shop!

At a Glance:

Name: Sangria

Alcohol Content: about 7%

Aesthetic: Cloudy, red

Flavour: Fruity and refreshing

When, Where, Who: July 23, 2015 at our Airbnb in Barcelona

Thoughts: 5/5, Perfectly refreshing for the heat of a Spanish summer

At a Glance:

Name: Horchata de Chufa

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: White, creamy

Flavour: Sweet, refreshing, delicious

When, Where, Who: July, 2015 at La Boqueria Market in Barcelona

Thoughts: 5/5,  Unique and ice-cold, perfect for wandering the market

Belgium

When it comes to alcohol consumption, Belgium is hard to beat! Beer is arguably Belgium’s most-famous beverage of choice and they have some pretty unique offerings. Spontaneously fermented lambic beers are delightfully tangy, though a bit of an acquired taste. These lambic-style beers can be blended together to produce gueuze beer or with fruit (such as sour Morello cherries) to create varieties like kriek. Trappist beers are traditionally brewed within Trappist monasteries by monks. Trappist monasteries recognized by the International Trappist Association are almost exclusively located within Europe, with six of the 14 recognized monasteries (as of 2019) located within Belgium.

At a Glance:

Gueuze on the left

Name: Cantillon Gueuze

Alcohol Content: 5%

Aesthetic: Light

Flavour: Sour, a bit citrusy

When, Where, Who: July 14, 2015 at our campsite in Brussels

Thoughts: 3/5, Lambics are pretty unique, I really like them but Nat isn’t a fan

At a Glance:

Kriek on the right

Name: Cantillon Kriek

Alcohol Content: 5%

Aesthetic: Dark

Flavour: Sour cherries

When, Where, Who: July 14, 2015  at our campsite in Brussels

Thoughts: 5/5, A favourite of mine! Imagine a beer that tastes like sour cherry candies

At a Glance:

Rochefort Trappistes 8 by Bernt Rostad on Flickr

Name: Trappistes Rochefort

Alcohol Content: 9.2%

Aesthetic: Dark

Flavour: Sweet and malty

When, Where, Who: July 14, 2015 at our campsite in Brussels

Thoughts: 4/5, Nathanael is a big fan!

Germany

Where to even begin with Germany? Beer is a pretty obvious starting point. Boisterous beer halls, Oktoberfest, and distinctive local flavours are just a few of the reasons why the German love of beer is so well-known. Don’t be afraid to join in! Beer halls often feature long tables or beautiful outdoor areas perfect for meeting friends and enjoying the afternoon in great company. And don’t forget to sample other German delights, such as the wide array of interesting liqueurs and digestifs!

At a Glance:

Name: Schlenkerla Rauchbier

Alcohol Content: about 5%

Aesthetic: Dark

Flavour: Smokey, like bacon

When, Where, Who: May 4, 2015 at Schlenkerla in Bamberg with Braeden

Thoughts: 3/5, Interesting smokey flavour, like drinking bacon

At a Glance:

Homemade eierlikör in Bunde!

Name: Eierlikör (homemade)

Alcohol Content: ?%

Aesthetic: Creamy

Flavour: Similar to eggnog or cake

When, Where, Who: July 6, 2015 in Tülau with Anita, Manfred, and Ingrid

Thoughts: 5/5, Delicious! Very rich

At a Glance:

Mezzo Mix by German Deli

Name: Mezzo Mix

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: Orange Coca-cola

Flavour: A mixture of Fanta and Coke

When, Where, Who: May 4, 2015 in Nuremberg with Uli, Braeden, and Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, Surprisingly good!

Wales

Wales is a small country bordering England with a beautiful, rugged coastline and enough castles packed into it to satisfy anyones medieval craving! Welsh beers are among the more popular local beverages of choice, but make sure you try the mead and locally distilled whiskeys!

At a Glance:

Name: Conwy Mead

Alcohol Content: 18%

Aesthetic: Clear and golden

Flavour: Very sweet but the whisky cuts it nicely

When, Where, Who: April 20, 2014 in Conwy

Thoughts: 4/5, Touristy, but some of the best mead we’ve had

Lithuania

If any country can give Belgium a run for its money in terms of alcohol consumption, it’s Lithuania. The most southern of the three Baltic countries, Lithuania is an enchanting blend of cultural tradition, scenic natural landscapes, and interesting perspectives. Many countries have their own spin on herbal liqueurs and Lithuania is no exception. As you travel through make sure you try them all and find your favourite cure for whatever is ailing you!

At a Glance:

Herba Devynia 999 by sturmpanzer – harvest on MyVimu

Name: 999

Alcohol Content: 35%

Aesthetic: Amber with a greenish hue

Flavour: Sweet with a gentle licorice flavour

When, Where, Who: May 27, 2015 in Vilnius

Thoughts: 4/5, Similar to Jägermeister but smoother and sweeter

Denmark

Grab some friends, pour yourself a drink, and get hygge! Denmark was among the first countries we visited on our adventure. We made some amazing new friends and I would easily put Copenhagen among my top picks for cities to live in. The energy of Denmark is warm and friendly, you will instantly feel at-ease and welcome as soon as you arrive. Enjoy rich, dark coffee in cafes lining the canals and pub experiences peppered with rounds of jovial singing and cold beer. Don’t forget to tour the breweries!

At a Glance:

Name: Jacobsen Original Dark Lager

Alcohol Content: 4.5%

Aesthetic: Dark, warm

Flavour: Malty, sweet

When, Where, Who: November 14, 2013 in Copenhagen with Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, All-around a great beer

Finland

We enjoyed our time with our Solbacka family so much we actually visited twice, the winter and summer! This gave us a wonderful, well-rounded appreciation for the beauty of Finnish countryside and the kindness of its inhabitants. Helsinki and Sveaborg are great places to explore and get a sense of Finland’s history and urban life, but make sure you make your way out into the countryside and forests as well to appreciate the natural beauty Finland has to offer. Wash down your lingonberries and leipäjuusto with refreshing Long drinks or, better yet, a Finnish beer!

At a Glance:

Name: Lonkero, Original Long Drink

Alcohol Content: 5.5%

Aesthetic: Cloudy, carbonated

Flavour: Refreshing, grapefruit

When, Where, Who: January 19, 2014 in Helsinki with Nathanael, Jeff, and Laura

Thoughts: 5/5, I have a soft spot for gin mixed drinks

At a Glance:

Name: Lapin Kulta Luomu

Alcohol Content: 4.6%

Aesthetic: Dark, reddish

Flavour: Easy-drinking

When, Where, Who: December 20, 2013 in Solbacka with Petra, Charlie, Pia, and Nathanael

Thoughts: 3/5, An easy-drinking, organic beer

Estonia

While we weren’t able to explore as much of Estonia as we would have liked, we LOVED Tallinn. We visited in both summer and winter, enjoying the Christmas lights and festivities in the quieter winter months and the lively, outdoor concerts during the summer. To this day, Nathanael and I both agree that the all-time favourite meal of our trip was at Põrgu, so don’t forget to check it out! If you’re wanting a quick meal and a step back in time at a memorable spot, go spear some pickles and enjoy mugs of ale at Draakon!

At a Glance:

Name: Pühade Porter

Alcohol Content: 6.9%

Aesthetic: Dark

Flavour: Strong, malty, roasted like syrup or dark bread

When, Where, Who: January 12, 2014 in Tallinn with Nathanel

Thoughts: 3.5/5, A bit strong but tasty

Ireland

I am such a sucker for a tall, cold pint of cider. We spent a decent amount of time pub-hopping in Ireland, from our local in Greystones to the packed tables of Temple Bar in Dublin. There’s nothing like multiple, cold drinks and some local music after spending a day following the footsteps of Cúchulainn or climbing the Giant’s Causeway. Obviously I couldn’t even begin to list the various ciders, beers, and beverages of Ireland, but the few below will at least give you a starting point. And if you indulge a little too much, a heavy breakfast of eggs, blood sausage, baked beans, toast, and tomatoes is just what the doctor ordered.

At a Glance:

O’hara’s Irish Red Ale photo by BCT Brewing Project

Name: O’hara’s Irish Red

Alcohol Content: 4.3%

Aesthetic: Dark and red

Flavour: Smooth, caramel

When, Where, Who: Clement’s home in Greystones, Ireland with Nathanael

Thoughts: 5/5, Nice with a sweet aftertaste!

At a Glance:

Magners Irish Cider by PierreSelim from Wikimedia Commons

Name: Magners Irish Cider Original

Alcohol Content: 4.5%

Aesthetic: Light, yellow-gold

Flavour: Nice, light, tart!

When, Where, Who: Greystones, Ireland with Nathanael

Thoughts: 5/5, So good

Turkey

Turkey is a beautiful country and usually one of the first I recommend when people ask where they should consider visiting. In our experience everyone was incredibly kind and welcoming, we were offered ekmek and çay by strangers when we looked lost and made new friends whenever we visited the local market. When it comes to favourite drinks, an unexpected contender of mine is a cool, frothy glass of ayran. We visited Turkey in the height of summer and on those brutally hot days there was nothing better than a cool, slightly salty glass of ayran which you could find just about anywhere.

At a Glance:

Treats on our first night in Turkey!

Name: Efes

Alcohol Content: 4.8%

Aesthetic: Light

Flavour: Smells floral, slightly sweet

When, Where, Who: July 18, 2014 in Izmir, Turkey with Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, Refreshing!

At a Glance:

Fresh ayran by Mavigogun from Wikimedia Commons

Name: Ayran

Alcohol Content: N/A

Aesthetic: White, creamy

Flavour: Yogurty, a little salty, refreshing

When, Where, Who: July, 2014 in Kabakum, Turkey with Nathanael and Hülya

Thoughts: 4/5, I wasn’t sure about the flavour initially, but this was perfect on crazy hot days

Romania

Dracula-paraphernalia abounds in Romania, but don’t let stories of fanged creatures of the night deter you!  The cities are beautiful, laid-back, and rich with history. Timișoara and Sighișoara look like they are straight out of a fairy-tale and Brașov is a fun, modern metropolis, there’s something for everyone. Strong beers were favourites of ours during our visit and they are a great companion to a hearty dish of roasted pork, mmmm.

At a Glance:

Name: Silva Strong Dark Lager

Alcohol Content: 7%

Aesthetic: Dark

Flavour: Roasted caramel with a smooth, sweet finish

When, Where, Who: February 10, 2015 in a restaurant in Cluj-Napoca, Romania with Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, A sweet, strong beer, very nice over our pasta dinner

England

Like Ireland, we enjoyed many a fine night in the pub with new friends and with visiting family! Nathanael fell in love with pints of dark Guinness, while I continued my on-going love affair with refreshing drinks of cider. Also like with Ireland, I couldn’t even begin to scratch the surface of all the fine drinks your can find on tap in your local pub. Whether it is a small, quiet hillside local or a rowdy joint with sandwiches passed around and an Elvis impersonator giving his all (true story, it was a great night), you are sure to have a memorable time discovering a favourite brew of your own when you visit!

At a Glance:

Refreshing glass of cider.

Name: Charmer

Alcohol Content: 6%

Aesthetic: Amber

Flavour: Crisp, light

When, Where, Who: April 20, 2014 in Bath Spa, England with Braeden and Nathanael

Thoughts: 4/5, Delicious, made by Orchard Pig in Glastonbury

Croatia

A favourite of my whole family, we had an amazing adventure in Croatia. Whether you visit to experience idyllic island life, incredible natural beauty, or cities showcasing Croatia’s rich, blended history, Croatia is a country that will leave you sun-kissed and smiling wherever you visit. Local wines and liqueurs were popular drinks of choice for us, and among the most unique was the lavender-flavoured liqueur my Mom and I tried in Poreč. While I can’t say it was a drink I would go out of my way for anytime soon, it certainly was memorable!

At a Glance:

Bags of Dalmatia lavender, imagine a liqueur from these!

Name: Lavanda

Alcohol Content: 28%

Aesthetic: Pale purple

Flavour: Very sweet and heavy lavender flavour

When, Where, Who: April 21, 2015 at the Sempervivum distillery in Poreč with Mom

Thoughts: 2/5, Pretty overpowering, okay in some cocktails, Nathanael still makes fun of me for buying a bottle of this

Greece

As soon as we landed in Greece we eagerly rushed out to try some of the local specialties we had been looking forward to trying. For me, I could have eaten euros and souvlaki daily for our entire stay, I was in heaven. For Nathanael, he loved the cloudy, anise-flavoured drink of choice, ouzo. One of my favourite experiences in our local town of Mohos was heading to the local tavern with our workaway host and enjoying drinks of ouzo with the local variation of mezé with dishes of fava beans, snails, olives, and cheeses.

At a Glance:

A cold glass of ouzo by the shore.

Name: Ouzo

Alcohol Content: 40%

Aesthetic: Clear

Flavour: Strong anise

When, Where, Who: May 25, 2015 in Chania with Nathanael

Thoughts: 1/5, I hated it but Nat loved it

The post Around Europe in 80 Drinks appeared first on The Incredibly Long Journey.

Athens, one of the oldest cities in the world, has been a thriving metropolis for thousands of years. More than a third of Greece’s population sprawls across the Attica plain amidst ruins of ancient grandeur. Athens is known as the founding place of western civilization: its arts, politics and philosophy. It has always been a highly revered city, even to foreign conquerors who would choose not to attack it out of respect. The Athens of today is still the political, business, and artistic centre of Greece and much beloved by the rest of the world.

Modern Athens.

Founding of Athens

The rocky precipice upon which the Acropolis was built has been inhabited for at least 7000 years. After the fall of the Minoan Empire around 1500 BC, the Mycenaeans rose to take their place as rulers of the Aegean. The Mycenaeans built fortresses throughout their empire to maintain their dominance. An immense citadel was established on the hill where the Acropolis now stands, overlooking the settlement below. The Mycenaean’s advanced society was a precursor to the ancient Greeks.

Mycenaean Funeral Masks including the Mask of Agamemnon (middle) from Athens’ National Archaeological Museum.

Mythology

Although scholars believe that the god Athena was named after Athens, there is an old story disputing that theory. According to legend, the first king of Athens, Cecrops, wanted to found the city under his name. The gods intervened, foreseeing a glorious future for the city they wanted to name it after themselves. A contest was declared between the gods Poseidon and Athena with King Cecrops and his citizens presiding. The god that could provide the greatest gift would win the honour of naming the city. Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and a gushing spring erupted from the earth. However, with Poseidon being the ruler of the seas, the spring produced salt water instead of drinking water. Athena dropped a seed into the earth and from it sprouted an olive tree. King Cecrops and his subjects deemed the olive tree more useful than a saltwater spring, so the city was founded under Athena’s name and became Athens.

The dispute of Athena and Poseidon over Athens.

We came to Athens by boat, from our adventures in Crete to the port of Piraeus. We booked an Airbnb room just 5 km south of the city centre for three days, hoping that would be enough time to visit the wonders of Athens. Instead of saving the best for last, once we dumped our luggage we made our way straight to the Acropolis. There were plenty of buses running in that direction but at this point in our travels we were seasoned for long walks.

Founding of Democracy

We were briefly side-tracked by the ruins of the Pnyx on our walk to the Acropolis. The Pnyx was the birthplace of democracy, a meeting place for Athenians from the 5th century BC. In theory, all citizens had the right to speak at the Pnyx’s democratic assemblies (except for women, of course). If you said anything stupid, you could be subjected to punishment, so in practice most common folk left the decision-making to the professionals. A council of 500 were selected by lottery to serve a year, guiding the assembly and preforming administrative duties. Every nine days up to 13000 citizens would gather at the Pnyx to take part in Athen’s democratic government.

Tickets and Entry Fees

From the Pnyx we followed a long line of tourists up to Greece’s top attraction: The Acropolis. We found a booth below the main entrance and bought a multi-site pass for 30 euros. This pass gave us entry to seven sites around Athens: the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, Karameikos, the Temple of the Olympian Zeus, Hadrian’s Library and Lykeion. To just get into the Acropolis the entry fee is 20 euros, so the multi-pass is a great deal if you have more than one day in Athens.

Line up into the Acropolis.

The Acropolis

This rocky citadel, crowned with three magnificent temples, is a major symbol of Greece and western civilization. Originally a Mycenaean palace, the Acropolis evolved into a religious sanctuary and a monument to the greatness of Athens.

The Acropolis in its heyday.

Propylaia

After climbing the stone staircase we passed through the Propylaia, the main gateway into the Acropolis. The ruins of its past splendor are still impressive to behold. The mighty, six columned facade of the Propylaia gives you a preview of the grandeur within its gates.

Parthenon

The Parthenon stands out immediately as you enter the Acropolis. This lofty temple was built in 432 BC and dedicated to the patron goddess of Athens: Athena. The Parthenon is the finest example of classical Greek architecture in the world. Throughout the ages, the temple has been shown great reverence and respect. Instead of being torn down by foreign invaders, it was re-purposed. In the 6th century it was converted into a Christian church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In the 1460’s, during Ottoman occupation, the temple was used as a mosque. Unfortunately, centuries of care and respect for the temple ended with an ‘accidental’ explosion.

The Acropolis explosion in 1687.

The Ottoman Empire’s attempt to invade Vienna sparked a retaliation from the west. In 1687 the Venetians attacked Athens in an attempt to take back Greek territories from the Ottomans. Turkish soldiers garrisoned themselves on the Acropolis while the Venetians had them surrounded. The Turks stored their ammunition within the Parthenon believing that the Venetians wouldn’t dare risk damaging such an important monument. The Venetians paid no heed and shelled the Acropolis for three days. Eventually, one lucky hit ignited the gunpowder inside the temple, severely damaging the Parthenon and its sculptures. If it wasn’t for this unfortunate accident, the Parthenon would be in much better shape than it is today.

Luckily, Jacques Carrey made detailed drawings of the Parthenon in 1674 before it was damaged. Using these drawings and archaeological evidence, the Committee for the Conservation of the Acropolis Monuments is carefully reconstructing the Parthenon to its former glory.

The Parthenon by Jacques Carrey 1674.

Temple of Athena Nike.

Temple of Athena-Nike

Two smaller, but no less significant, temples surround the Parthenon. At the south west corner of the Acropolis, right beside the Propylaia, is the Temple of Athena Nike. It is a very small temple with ornate carvings. A statue of Athena Nike, a version of Athena worshiped as the goddess of victory, used to reside there. The temple has been dismantled several times, in 1868 when the Ottoman Turks needed stone to fortify their position, and several times during the 20th century to fix structural issues.

Erechtheion

On the north side of the Acropolis is the Erechtheion, supposedly built on the site where Athena and Poseidon held their contest to be patron of Athens. While the Parthenon was more so a tribute to Athena than a place of worship, the Erechtheion was the temple one would go to for prayer. One notable feature is The Porch of the Caryatids, six stone maidens as supporting columns. These are replicas, the real Caryatids are kept inside the Acropolis Museum and one in the British Museum in London. Several sculptures from the Acropolis were sold to a British Lord Elgin during Ottoman occupation, and eventually sold to the British Museum. The Greek government is still trying to get these priceless statues back to where they belong.

Slopes of the Acropolis

Just when you thought it was all over, there’s a lot more to the Acropolis than the Parthenon. After visiting the main sites of the Acropolis I wanted to take a walk around the hill to look at its fortifications. I’m glad we did because there’s a lot more to see at the base of the hill. There are several caves on the north side of the hill that were lived in during Neolithic times. Over time, as the Acropolis evolved into a sacred area, these caves became shrines for the gods. Settlements on the south side of the hill were developed into theatres and sanctuaries.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Theatre of Dionysus are hard to miss. The Odeon has a three story facade, holds an audience of 5000, and used to have a cedar roof. It was originally built in 160 AD and it is still used for concerts today.

The Theatre of Dionysus is the oldest theatre in the world, built in 330 BC, a proto-type for future Roman theatres. It was built for the Great Dionysia festival, a celebration in honour of Dionysus, the god of wine, fertility and religious ecstasy.

After walking all around the Acropolis with the sun beating down on us we had our fill for the day. Luckily our multi-pass didn’t expire for five days so there was no need to rush things. After finding a tasty gyro for supper we packed it in for the night.

Ancient Agora

The next morning we tottled over to Athen’s Ancient Agora, north west of the Acropolis. The name “Agora” means “gathering place”. Like any other city centre, the Ancient Agora had a marketplace, residences and places of worship. It was also a place for public assemblies and hearings. Athenians would gather at the Agora to shop, learn, and pray.

Athen’s Ancient Agora.

Stoa of Atallos

Although much of the Ancient Agora is in ruins, two spectacular structures stand out. The Stoa of Atallos and the Temple of Hephaestus. The Stoa of Atallos you see today is actually a 20th century recreation of the original which was destroyed in 267 AD. This marble edifice was 115 metres long, had two floors and 42 rooms. Each room had its own shop and artisan. Athenians would come to the stoa to hide from harsh weather, hangout and socialize.

Temple of Hephaestus

The Temple of Hephaestus, built around 420 BC, is the best preserved classical Greek temple to date. From the 7th century it was used as a Christian church until the 19th century, thus saving it from dereliction. Many of the original carvings are still intact; you can find scenes depicting the deeds of Theseus and Heracles around the temple. Inside the Hephaisteion once stood statues of the gods Athena and Hephaestus, patrons of the arts. In legend the two gods, through unconventional means, gave birth to the one of earliest kings of Athens: Erichthonios.

Roman Agora

Right across the street from the Ancient Agora is the Roman Agora, built many centuries later. During Roman occupation, Julius Caesar invested in Athens, renovating the Greek agora and constructing a new agora in the 1st century BC. Unlike the old one, the Roman Agora was purely a marketplace with shops and artisans.

Athen’s Roman Agora.

Gate of Athena, entrance to the Roman Forum.

Gate of Athena Archegetis

At the main entrance to the market is the Gate of Athena Archegetis, still obstinate to time and the elements. It was designed to resemble the facade of a classical Greek temple and was devoted to the goddess Athena. The Romans assimilated Greek architecture, art, religion and philosophies into their own. This shows us just how much reverence they held for classical Greek culture.

Tower of the Winds

An exquisitely unique, octagonal tower stands at the eastern end of the Roman Agora. The Tower of the Winds was built in the 2nd century by a Macedonian astronomer, Andronicus of Cyrrhus. Eight wind deities decorate each side of the tower, symbolising the eight directions of the wind. It functioned as a meteorological station with a sundial, water clock and a weather vane. Unfortunately, during our visit it was completely covered in scaffolding and closed to the public, but you can’t time everything right.

Tower of the Winds (without scaffolding).

Temple of the Olympian Zeus

There was one last classical Greek marvel we needed to see: the Temple of the Olympian Zeus. We made our way to the eastern side of the Acropolis and already we could spy it’s mighty columns towering in the distance. This temple is the largest in Greece, with beautiful Corinthian columns rising up to the sky like tree trunks.

Temple of the Olympian Zeus.

A bust of Emperor Hadrian.

Construction of the Zeus’ temple began in the 6th century BC by Athenian ruler Peisistratos. The monument was left unfinished for around 700 years until Roman Emperor Hadrian finally completed the project. He also put two, gigantic golden ivory statues inside the temple, one of Zeus and an equivalent statue of himself. This was Hadrian’s subtle way of telling everyone that he was of equal status to the head of the Olympian Gods. Of course, these statues are gone, probably chopped up and melted down at some point in history.

Sadly, only 16 of the original 104 columns remain after centuries of stone robbery and natural disasters. But, standing next to its colossal remains and looking at the space it would have filled, you can feel the Olympian’s powerful presence.

National Archaeological Museum

On our third day in Athens we decided to take it easy after touring like crazy people. We couldn’t leave Athens, however, without seeing some of the priceless artifacts at the National Archaeological Museum (plus it was a nice reprieve from the sun’s wrath). Having toured around Europe for 20 months straight at this point we were pretty tired of museums, but the Archaeological Museum still caught my interest.

Outside the National Archaeological Museum.

The entrance fee for the museum wasn’t included in our multi-pass, but for a mere 5 euros you get to see Aegean artifacts as old as 6000 BC to the Classical era. Exquisite gold relics, ancient weapons, black figure pottery, and mythological sculptures are housed in this 8000 square metre building. Wandering, overwhelmed, through its 15000 exhibits, I recognized many sculptures and vases depicting popular Greek myths. A bronze mask of Medusa, a marble sculpture of the Minotaur, and a vase depicting Heracles battling the Hydra filled my mind’s eye with the legends I heard growing up. I saw the famous golden mask of Agamemnon, an artifact I distinctly remember from my high school textbook. My other two favourite treasures were the bronze statue of Zeus and the Horse and Jockey, both found at the bottom of the sea.

Monument of Philopappos

Monument of Philapappos.

We had arranged to meet with a Couchsurfer host Michael outside the Archaeological Museum on our final day in Athens. Originally we had contacted Michael for a place to stay, and although he couldn’t oblige he offered to meet us for coffee. Michael took us on a long walk through parts of Athens we hadn’t noticed before and up to the Monument of Philoppapos. It was nice hanging out with a local Athenian and getting a more personal perspective on his home city.

It was a peaceful walk out of the dense urban atmosphere up Muse hill. The monument at its summit is also a tomb for the Roman Magistrate Philopappos, much beloved by the people of Athens. I loved the cobblestone walkway winding up the hill to such a spectacular view of Athens. From that vantage point I could observe all the temples and agoras, ancient islands in a modern metropolis. I could hardly believe I was standing there, looking down at the city where western civilization began. Mostly everything about our western society can be traced back to the Ancient Greeks: language, arts, architecture, politics, technologies, ethics, and philosophies. It was a perfect ending to our Athens adventure!

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Tourists visit Greece to explore archaeological wonders like the Acropolis, but they often forget where western civilization truly began: in Minoan Crete. Home to the Minoans long before Athen’s heyday, the kingdom of Crete boasted magnificent palaces, cities, and a rich culture that influenced most of the Mediterranean. Although it is shrouded in mystery and legend, archaeological evidence gives us a glimpse into the rise and fall of this advanced society. During our travels through Crete I made it my mission to visit these ancient Minoan sites and examine the evidence of their greatness firsthand.

Theseus and the Minotaur

Many of us have heard the most popular story of Crete: Theseus and the Minotaur. King Minos of Crete held dominance over the Athenians at the time of the tale. As tribute, Minos demanded seven young men and seven young women from Athens every year. These prisoners would be sacrificed to a monstrous, humanoid bull living in the labyrinth beneath Minos’ palace. On the third year of tribute, a hero named Theseus finds a way to defeat the minotaur. Using a ball of twine, Theseus marks his trail into the depths of the labyrinth. The hero confronts the dreadful monster and slays it in battle, thus temporarily ending King Minos‘ reign of terror.

Theseus and the Minotaur in Archibald Fountain, Sydney, Australia.

Minoan History and Culture

The tale of the Minotaur is the only written “history” we have left about the Minoans. The story was constructed by the Ancient Greeks about their enemies, the Cretians, so it’s difficult to say how much of it is true. Archaeological discoveries in Crete, however, have shed light on the Minoan people and have even made connections to the legend of the Minotaur.

The Minoans flourished in Crete and the islands of Greece between 2000-1470 BC. In the Odyssey, Homer states that Crete once had a large population with 90 cities. The Minoans built magnificent palace/religious centres so intricate they were like labyrinths. Excavations of these palaces have revealed frescoes and sculptures depicting bulls and themes of nature. At Knossos, a restored fresco portrays young men and women leaping over charging bulls. With the vast amount of bull images found at Minoan sites, we can conclude that they either worshiped  the bull or held it sacred. Even if the story of the Minotaur isn’t true, it was certainly inspired by Minoan culture.

At their height the Minoans dominated the Aegean Sea and had a sophisticated culture on par with the Ancient Egyptians. The Minoans traded all around the Mediterranean, from Spain to Israel. Their trade routes influenced cultures from what was considered to be the centre of human civilization. Minoans had their own style of art and sculpture as well as their own written language which, unfortunately, is still indecipherable today.

Minoa remained a powerful force in the Mediterranean until, around 1500 BC, a cataclysm weakened them to the point of no return. Archaeological evidence attributes Minoa’s decline to the eruption of Thera, one of the largest volcanic events in known history. Subsequent earthquakes and tsunamis devastated Minoa allowing the rising Mycenaeans to swoop in and take command of the Aegean. The Mycenaeans evolved under the influence of Minoan Crete and founded many of the grand cities of Ancient Greece, like Athens and Thebes. Therefore, our notions of modern, western society stemming from Ancient Greece should instead be accredited to the Minoans.

Fresco of Minoan Fleet at Akrotiri, Greece.

Minoan Palaces

Sir Arthur John Evans.

The capital city of Knossos was the first major Minoan archaeological site. Before the discovery of Knossos in 1878 (by Minos Kalokairinos), the Minoan civilization was virtually unknown. It was Arthur Evans who went to work uncovering and restoring Knossos to the best of his ability. One of the driving forces behind this excavation was the theory that Knossos was the mythical labyrinth of King Minos. Unfortunately, archaeological practices in the 20th century were reckless compared to modern standards and some of the “restorations” aren’t entirely accurate. Still, Evans’ rebuild of Knossos brought interest to the Minoans and inspired further excavations. The site of Knossos also jump-started tourism in Crete; everyone wanted to walk the labyrinth that Theseus once braved in days of yore.

What drew me to Crete was of course the story of Theseus and the Minotaur. Bringing truth and life to mythology is always exciting for me, which is why we visited sites like Troy (The Illiad), Glastonbury (King Arthur), Dundalk (Cúchulainn), and Rome (Romulus and Remus). Visiting the site of Knossos was an exceptional experience. Unlike most archaeological sites, much of Knossos has been restored, thanks to Arthur Evans, so you can get a clear depictions of Minoan art and architecture.

Knossos

In its heyday, Knossos was the religious and political centre of Minoa. It was not just a residence for the royal family but a plethora of markets, workshops, and religious spaces. At its peak, around 1700 BC, the palace and surrounding city of Knossos held 100 000 people. The architecture of Knossos was very advanced for its time; some buildings reached as high as five stories. The palace complex had a confusing layout lacking any symmetry, with multiple levels and various sized chambers. In the middle of this labyrinthine layout was a massive central court used for performances or religious ceremonies.

Wooden replica of Knossos in its heyday.

It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed walking through the many levels of the palace complex. We could see from the restorations that Minoans loved the beauty and colour of nature and decorated their homes this way. I tried to imagine King Minos sacrificing Athenians to a monstrous bull in this beautiful palace and just couldn’t believe it.

Malia

Although Knossos was the capital city in ancient Crete there were many other palace complexes on the island. About 40 kilometres east of Knossos, built nearly 4000 years ago, is the palace of Malia. It was the third largest Minoan palace, with similar architecture to Knossos, right on the delightful, Cretian coast. According to legend, King Minos’ brother, Sarpedon, ruled Malia. Much like Knossos, Malia was both a royal palace and administrative/business centre. The palace contained religious sanctuaries, workshops, storage magazines and a theatre. All Minoan citizens were allowed into the palace to shop, lounge, pray, and be entertained.

On one of our days off from earth building in Stalida we decided to take a long walk to the ruins of Malia. It was a grueling, 13 km walk in the hot sun, but we managed to get there without blacking out. Malia hasn’t been reconstructed to the extent of Knossos, so it may lose the interest of mainstream tourists. The foundation walls give you a skeleton of the palace’s layout but your imagination must do most of the work. I still thoroughly enjoyed it, running through the rooms and passageways like a kid in a corn maze (I even got yelled at by a security guard).

The Minoan people were incredibly sophisticated for their time, ruled the known world, and laid the foundation for western society. While the Ancient Egyptians were living in mud huts and slaving away to build pyramids for the dead, the Minoans were living in luxurious palace complexes. Through their artwork and archaeological evidence you can see how the Minoans celebrated life and nature. Maybe they lived too well, for like Atlantis, the gods grew jealous of their prosperity and brought the Minoan civilization to its knees.

Watercolour depiction of life at Knossos.

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Out of all the wonders we’ve witnessed in our travels through Europe, our workaway experiences have been the most memorable. In Finland we lived with an alternative community, constructed a yurt and worked on a straw bale home. In Hungary we helped renovate a 200 year old adobe brick house. We walked dogs through the Balkan mountains, babysat 3 kids in Vienna, helped bring back a lost garden in Scotland, and made caramelized sugar schnapps in Poland. We built relationships with people across the continent through the opportunities provided by work exchange organizations. Workaway forced us to get off the beaten, tourist trail and experience what we would otherwise have ignored. Our 18th and final workaway experience, within our 22 month European journey, began on the island of Crete. It was in the seaside town of Stalida one evening where we met the hyperadobe earth building visionnaire, Michael.

It was already getting dark as we stepped off the bus on the outskirts of Stalida. We had traveled all the way from the other side of Crete to meet up with our workaway host at his construction site. Michael’s workaway profile said he needed volunteers to help realise his dream: an art and community centre built out of earth. At this point we had very little idea about what an earth house would look like, much less how to build one, but we were eager to find out.

Superadobe Ecovillage in Peru, South America.

Earth Construction

Earth construction has been around for thousands of years, since man first started creating their own dwellings. Early forms of earth building included baking mud blocks in the sun to make bricks. These adobe bricks, a mixture of dirt, clay and straw, are still used in most parts of Africa where timber resources are limited.

An earth brick fortress, Ait-Ben-Haddou in southern Morocco.

Earth construction evolved in military operations where they would use sand bags, filled with moistened dirt, to build temporary bunkers.

Marines Sandbag Outpost, 1969- by Archives Branch, USMC History Division

Nader Khalili’s Superadobe Construction in Karatbi San, Djibouti.

Borrowing from the military’s earth bag technique, Nader Khalili developed the superadobe design for NASA as a housing solution for possible future moon and mars colonies. I admit that does sound out-of-this-world, but Superadobe was later recognized as a more plausible solution for emergency shelters. The superadobe technique requires a significant amount of labour but uses dirt-cheap materials (pun intended) and can be built by unskilled workers. During an emergency situation where natural forces have wiped out a settlement, superadobe bags are light, making it cheap and easy to transport to an affected area. Survivors can then work together filling superadobe bags with dirt, using minimal tools, and build sturdy shelters to protect them from the elements.

Taking superadobe to the next level, Fernando Pacheco from Brazil invented Hyperadobe, an earth-building method our workaway host chose for his masterpiece.

An earth wall built using the Hyperadobe technique.

Following the directions Michael gave us, we walked down a small lane into Stalida and miraculously found the building site. We couldn’t see much in the dim evening light except a wavy mud wall embedded with rubber tire portals. We tentatively walked through the gateway and called out a greeting into the shadows. A red-earth mud man emerged and gave us a vigorous handshake, introducing himself as Michael. Michael explained that we’d have to hitchhike up the mountain to the village of Mohos, where he lived. It was almost completely dark, had started to drizzle, and I had my doubts that we’d be able to flag down a willing driver. Michael, however, was perfectly optimistic and it wasn’t too long before a local Mohosian took pity on us.

Ashleigh and I hitchhiking to and from Mohos.

Mohos

Although agriculture is still a major industry in Crete, tourism has become the primary source of income for its citizens. Passing through the main square of Mohos we could see what was once a farming village had transformed into a tourist attraction. The square was paved with brand new cobblestone and lined with brightly lit cafes and bars. Although the main plaza was basically empty, the restaurants were open for business as if expecting a wave of tourists to come up the mountain at any moment.

Mohos Main Square.

We continued following Michael through the dimly lit village of white-washed stone until we arrived at his home. I have to admit his house was the smallest I’ve ever seen, but Michael graciously offered his bedroom to us. He then showed us his rooftop terrace revealing lovely views of Mohos and the surrounding hills. Later that evening we returned to the main square of Mohos where Michael treated us with a traditional Cretan Meze along with a few shots of Rakia (plum brandy). The meze included fruit, stuffed olives, broad beans, snails and other appetizers. It was the first time I’ve ever tried snails and although I couldn’t get used to the slimy texture it wasn’t half bad. Michael talked to us about the work we would be doing in Stalida the next day and we were excited to learn about the hyperadobe process firsthand. After finishing our exotic meal, we sipped Rakia and soaked up the quiet, contented atmosphere of the village square before turning in for the night.

Michael’s Hyperadobe Home

The next morning we were back on the road hitchhiking to Stalida. We hopped in the back of a pickup truck and enjoyed the marvelous view of the coast while we were driven down the mountain. In the daylight we could clearly see Michael’s building site and the work that needed to be done. Tragically, a week of heavy rainstorm had destroyed most of the building before they could put a protective layer of plaster on it. A earthwall surrounded the property and parts of the original building still stood, but the once magnificent dome roof had collapsed. I don’t know if I would have the will to continue my project after such a catastrophe, but Michael would not let himself give up.

We could tell how much Michael appreciated the artistic side of things. The site was decorated with art pieces made from shells and reclaimed, coloured glass. Flowers were planted everywhere, including strawberry and pepper plants. He even got Ashleigh working on a snail mural before we started building anything.

Ashleigh’s completed art piece of broken glass and snail shells.

Exploring Crete

Michael was such an easy-going guy that we were sorry in the end because we felt like we could have helped more. Every day we would hitchhike down the mountain with Michael and he would either teach us about hyperadobe, we’d work together on an art piece, do some plastering, or just relax on the beach of Stalida drinking frappés. By the way, a cheap but effective home-made frappé coffee: water bottle, instant coffee, sugar, shake shake shake and voila! Sometimes Michael’s zen friend, Versailles the Goldsmith, would show up at the worksite and give us pointers.

Michael would often change his mind about what we were doing that day, or sometimes call the whole day off and postpone until tomorrow, so we had a lot of time for tourism. On our days off we hiked through olive groves to nearby villages such as Hersonissos and Archanes, including the flooded village of Sfendily! Michael gave us a home base in Crete for touring, but on the days we would work he always kept it fun and interesting.

The Basics of Hyperadobe

Ashleigh and I working on a wall using the hyperadobe technique.

The only major difference between hyperadobe and superadobe is that hyperadobe uses knit raschel bags instead of polypropylene bags. With hyperadobe, you don’t need to lay down barbed wire between the layers to tie them together as you do with superadobe. The open netting in hyperadobe allows the layers of earth to merge together with some added water.

The best soil to use for hyperadobe should be a mix of  30% clay and 70% sand. We used an open bottom bucket to help us with the process of laying down the earth layers. We started by scrunching up a long tube of the raschel bag onto the bucket and tying off one end. While one person held the bucket, shaking it and slowly moving down the line, another person filled the bags with earth through the bucket. Kind of like squeezing out a line of tooth paste, the first layer of the earth wall is put down and then tamped with a flat, heavy object. Before adding a second layer of earth you must wet the first layer so they can meld together. That’s pretty much it for a simple wall, as long as you remember to tamp and wet each layer the wall should be very sturdy.

Rain will eventually disintegrate the hyperadobe wall, so to protect it, you must cover the earth with a layer of plaster. Michael showed us how to mix our own plaster with clay, sand, cement. lime and straw. We mixed all our materials in a tarp by frolicking around in it for ten minutes and then applied it to the walls by hand. The lime is caustic, however, so you should remember to wear some protective footwear and gloves.

Our Final Workaway

Without work exchange programs like WWOOF, Workaway, and Helpx, I believe that our Europe trip wouldn’t have felt as satisfying. It’s exciting to tour around and explore beautiful places, but without some kind of human connection it’s only a thrill-ride. Ashleigh and I are both introverts but Workaway brought us out of our comfort zones. Workaway forced us to live and work with people from all walks of life, and though it may not have been all perfect, it gave us a stronger connection the places we were visiting. On top of that, Workaway helped us save a lot of money on hotels and eating out. Thanks to our hosts, we learned more about the culture we were in and discovered places we couldn’t read about in a travel guide.

We were sad we couldn’t have stayed with Michael long enough to see his hyperadobe building to completion. We hope with all of our hearts that one day he will realise his dream.

Michael constructing a Hyperadobe dome.

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What are we eating in… The Balkans!

I want to start by saying that we LOVED the food throughout the Balkan region. Think rich soups, stews, grilled meats, and pies flavoured with paprika, garlic, and fresh vegetables. This feels like cheating a little bit because the “Balkans” encompass a large, diverse region of eastern Europe. The Balkan Peninsula is surrounded by the Adriatic, Mediterranean, Marmara, and the Black Seas and more or less encompasses all of southeastern Europe. For simplicity, I’ll be talking more about some of the foods we enjoyed in the core region of the Balkans, namely Albania, Bulgaria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro, and Serbia.

Dishes vary region to region, coast to coast, but we did find a lot of familiar favourites throughout the Balkans. It was also fun to taste the subtle differences between countries! Ćevapi, or ćevapčići, were pretty popular in most places we visited, but the spices varied slightly in each area we visited (and many boasting the best in the Balkans ). This is just a small snapshot of the amazing food we encountered, so don’t hesitate to go wild when you visit!

Lakruar and fergese in Albania

Get your dairy on

The first thing I need to talk about is kajmak, because it changed my life forever. Depending on where you are in the Balkans (or Turkey, Iran, and a handful of other countries) kajmak is made from simmering the milk of water bufalos, cows, sheep, or goats. After simmering, the cream is skimmed and allowed to chill and ferment, resulting in something similar to cream cheese. We first stumbled across kajmak in Bosnia and Herzegovina, nestled lovingly next to a plate of ćevapi (more on that later!). Our host in Sarajevo filled us in on what this delightful treasure was called and brought some fresh kajmak home that was even better than our first taste. Until I find it in Canada (and even then it won’t be the same) I will dream about its creamy deliciousness forever.

Delicious kajmak, mmmm

Speaking of fermented dairy, lets talk kefir! This was a favourite of Nathanael’s. Kefir is a fermented milk drink, traditionally made by inoculating milk with kefir grains  and allowing the mixture to ferment in goatskin bags. You can actually make your own at home, check it out here! We can also find it here in Canada at the grocery store, but it’s a little bit different everywhere you try it so it’s just not quite the same.

Na Zdravi, Nazdrave, Živeli!

When you find yourself in a cafe in Sarajevo, don’t forget to do as the they do and enjoy a strong cup of Bosnian coffee. This cup of coffee is a point of national pride and not to be taken lightly. The coffee is served rich and dark in a copper džezva, with a side of sugar cubes to sweeten it (if so desired) and rahat lokum (Turkish delight). At first glance, and sip, it didn’t seem too different from Turkish coffee to our untrained tastebuds, but it quickly became a morning ritual during our stay. This article does a nice job of describing the difference between the two, give it a read before visiting!

Looking for something even stronger? Look no further than Rakia, or Rakija, a popular fruit brandy ranging anywhere from 40 to 90%  ABV. Our Bulgarian host gave us our first sip as a welcome to Bulgaria, and we were hooked. Commonly produced from grapes or plums, it also goes by pálinka or other similar variations in Poland, Slovakia, Czech, and Hungary. We even had the privilege to try some home-brewed rakia with a local and some friends outside of Teteven!

Enjoying home-brewed Rakia

Meats, Mains, and Pies, oh my!

Pršut! Adapted from the Italian name prosciutto, Slavic pršut is a much-loved dry-cured ham served thinly sliced and uncooked. In certain regions of the Balkans, specifically Serbia and Herzegovina among others, pršut is smoked (differing from Italian prosciutto), and the village of Njeguši in Montenegro makes its own speciality called njeguški pršut. Regardless of how its made and where its from, pršut is a delightful addition to any sandwich or served alongside cheese and vegetables.

By Valdavia (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons

Sarma is a classic winter dish in the Balkans and can be found in a variety of styles. Sarma can be wrapped in cooked cabbage, similar to cabbage rolls found elsewhere in Europe, but can also use fermented cabbage or grape vine leaves to wrap the filling. Inside, the filling consists of hearty combinations of minced or dried meats, rice, garlic, and spices. Usually served hot with sour cream and fresh bread, these make for a perfect meal for coming in out of a cold winter’s day.

It’s time for the star of the show, the much beloved, quintessential Balkan dish, drumroll please… Ćevapi! They’re common across much of the Balkans and often met with dreamy sighs as someone imagines their last dish. Ćevapi are grilled sausages, often served with flatbread and sides of chopped onion, ajvar, kajmak, or other condiments. Side note: ajvar is also delicious! A Romanian woman kind enough to share some lunch with us on a train let us try some ajvar, a roasted red pepper and eggplant sauce. Back to the main attraction, the meat and spice mixtures of ćevapi differ between regions, but they’re always delicious. Our Croatian host asserted that Sarajevo in Bosnia produced the best ćevapi in the Balkans, and I think I would have to agree. My family were also big fans when they came to visit us in Croatia. Regardless of who makes the best ćevapi, you won’t be disappointed in this iconic Balkan dish.

Ćevapi!

As mentioned, this is just a snapshot of the tasty treats and tipples we enjoyed across the Balkans, especially since each country adds their unique spin to shared dishes. My top recommendation would be to try as much as you can in every corner of the Balkans you visit. You will be amazed at the difference between the lakruar you tried in Albania and the burek in Bosnia!

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As we prepared to say arrivederci to Italy, we set our sights on the islands of Greece for our next destination. Everyone raves about the rock bottom prices Ryanair offers to fly around Europe, and we figured it was time we give it a try for ourselves! The flights themselves are nothing to rave about. Everything costs a little extra: checking a bag, getting a snack, having a drink, entertainment, etc but when we saw that it was still way cheaper to fly from Rome to Chania than take the  ferry, how could we resist? Greece here we come!

Budget Travel

As most travel-savvy Europeans are well-aware, Ryanair and a handful of other budget airlines (Canada has a few now too!) service a variety of destinations around the continent for a fraction of the cost of traditional airlines. But there’s always a catch. Just about anything outside of your one carry-on will cost extra, that includes reprinting your boarding pass (€15), checking in at the airport instead of online (€45), bringing a baby on-board (yup, you read that right, €20), and even paying by credit card (extra 2% of transaction total) (prices circa February 2017). Ryanair also tends to fly into more out of the way airports too, rather than the typical hubs. When all is said and done though, these can still be a great option for travelling on a budget!

Restaurant patios set up in the main harbour of Chania, check out those Venetian Warehouses!

The Greek Islands

Sprinkled throughout the Ionian and Aegean seas Greece has 227 inhabited islands (and many more uninhabited) featuring everything from incredible sandy beaches to coastal wetlands to the remnants of volcanoes. Santorini is probably the most iconic of the Greek islands (picture those breathtaking cliffs topped with whitewashed, blue-roofed buildings), but many of the other islands share Santorini’s charms and all offer some of their own as well. Island-hopping packages are plentiful with a bit of research and guides to the islands are easy to find (check out Rick Steve’s, Nomadic Matt, and Lonely Planet to get started). Being on a tight budget and timeline, we opted to focus our exploring on the largest Greek Island, Crete. We arrived at a lovely airbnb in Chania later in the evening, and after a quick jaunt down the street for supplies (a.k.a. quick eats) we let the sea breeze lull us to sleep so we could start fresh in the morning.

Chania

People have been settled on the site of Chania since antiquity. Today, modern Greeks occupy Chania’s Venetian harbour but originally the ancient Minoan settlement of Kydonia (or Cydonia) occupied these Aegean shores. Early mention of Kydonia has been found on Linear B tablets found at Knossos (we’ll be writing more about this incredible ancient site in a later post!). In fact, evidence of human settlement dating all the way back to the Neolithic era has been found at Chania! This harbour has been in use for millennia, even today fishermen continue to bring in their daily catch and you can see fresh octopus laid out in the wharf.

Yum!

Chania’s old town is considered to be one of the most beautiful areas on Crete, despite suffering damage during World War II. The old town is currently surrounded by two layers of fortifications, the inner walls having been built originally in antiquity before being rebuilt by the Byzantine Empire in the 6th and 7th centuries AD. The outer walls were built in the 16th century by the Republic of Venice. Portions of both walls remain today for you to see and are historically interesting, but I found the old town and harbour-front a little more scenic. One of Chania’s most prominent and famous features is its beautiful Venetian harbour. The port is dotted with Turkish features from a time of Ottoman rule that lend an exotic air to the  area.

The Egyptian Lighthouse

The crowning feature in the old harbour is the Egyptian Lighthouse. First constructed by the Venetians in the 16th century, it gained its present state when it was reconstructed by the Egyptians in the 19th century, hence the name. We were visiting on an especially stormy day, and it was easy to see how useful such a landmark is to those coming in off the choppy sea.

As the rain slowly moved off and the sun began to peak out, we moved away from the lighthouse and wandered the freshly-washed streets of the old town. All was pretty quiet, tourist season wasn’t set to begin for a little while yet, and for just a little longer we could enjoy a more tranquil glimpse of Greek life. In the morning we would be off to our volunteer stay in Greece and hopefully a sample of traditional, small-town life in the little village of Mohos. For now, we enjoyed the smell of rain and fresh flowers of Chania’s narrow alleys, our first taste of Greece.

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You could say that the Roman Empire lives on though the Vatican. It was Emperor Constantine the Great who converted the whole of Europe to Christianity and built the original church on Vatican hill, over the grave of Saint Peter himself.  After the Western Roman Empire fell, the Catholic Church acted as the principal force of unity in the Western World. In the Middle Ages, the Pope was considered greater than all the kings and rulers of Europe. Even today, the Pope is the head of the Roman Catholic Church with more than 1.2 billion followers. Vatican City has become one of the most popular attractions in the world, drawing over 5 million tourists a year to its priceless works of art and opulent architecture. Despite one’s religious beliefs, one cannot deny the cultural and historical importance of the Roman Catholic Church and the Vatican.

“Triumph of Christian Religion” by Laureti in Vatican Museum. Depicts the order by Constantine to destroy pagan idols and replace them with images of Christ.

Saint Peter’s Square

Circus of Nero in relation to St. Peter’s Basilica.

On our final day in Rome, we approached the oval St.Peter’s Square with wonder and anticipation. This is where a throng of hundreds, at the feet of Saint Peter’s Basillica, gather to listen to the Pope’s sermons. It was also the spiritual centre of the Roman Empire reborn under the new religion, Christianity. Ironically, St.Peter’s Square and Basilica were built over the Roman Circus of Nero, a state official martyrdom for Christians. From 65 AD, many Christians suffered persecution and were put to death in this arena, including Saint Peter. Legends tell us that Peter was crucified upside down because he did not deem himself worthy to die in the way of his teacher, Jesus Christ.

Because of the deaths of Saint Peter and all those Christians, Roman Emperor Constantine considered Vatican Hill as a sacred area. In 326 AD, Constantine demolished Nero’s Circus and built an enormous church on Vatican Hill, over top Peter’s grave, calling it “Saint Peter’s Church“. The only surviving remnant of Nero’s Circus is an Egyptian Obelisk, which now stands in the centre of St.Peter’s Square.

Depiction of the Old St.Peter’s Basilica.

When it’s not teeming with hordes of tourists, you can really appreciate the stunning symmetry of St. Peter’s Square. Tuscan colonnades encapsulate the piazza, while twin fountains flank Nero’s Obelisk at its centre, all under the illustrious presence of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Saint Peter’s Basillica

The Constantinian Basilica of Saint Peter was demolished in 1505 to make way for the greatest church of all time. As it stands today, the “Basilica Sancti Petri” is the largest church in the world and a magnificent example of Renaissance architecture. We were temporarily scared off by the line-up, snaking into the basilica, and walked across the square to get a better look at its exterior. Without a bird’s eye view, it was difficult to visualise the true glory of Saint Peter’s Basilica due to its size, but the facade was lavishly detailed with travertine stone, Corinthian columns and statues of Jesus and the Apostles.

The basilica’s construction was pretty touch-and-go for the first 40 years. It was designed several times over by first Donato Bramante, then Giuliano da Sangallo, Fra Giocondo and Raphael. In the end it was Michelangelo who completed the bulk of the project, drawing from the plans of the previous architectural geniuses. Finalised in 1626, Saint Peter’s Basilica was a colossal structure, able to host some 60 000 people, capped with the tallest dome in the world.

After waiting a few minutes in queue (which went surprisingly quickly considering the length), we were happy to discover that the entrance to Saint Peter’s Basilica was free! Entering the Basilica was like cracking open a stupendously large geode. The exterior of the basilica is plain compared to the interior: a mighty cavern covered in baroque marble, stucco, and mosaic embellishments. Out of everything, it was the basilica’s ceiling that mesmerised me: a barrel vaulted sky of glittering, gold reliefs. Gazing up into the dome you can see God, the angels, and all the saints looking down at you from the kingdom of heaven. One thing I wish I knew when we visited: you can actually climb up into the dome and on to the roof of the Basilica, for a mere 6 euros, getting incredible views of Vatican City and St.Peter’s Square!

Statue of Saint Peter Enthroned.

The church is filled with many statues of rulers and saints, including the enthroned statue of St. Peter. One of Peter’s feet is almost completely worn away by the amount of pilgrims and the faithful, kissing it to show their devotion. Peter is an important figure in Catholicism, considered to be the first Pope and, according to Jesus in the New Testament, the “rock” of the Christian church.

Underneath St. Peter’s Basilica is a grotto containing the tombs of emperors, kings, and previous Popes. St. Peter’s tomb, built by Constantine in the 4th century, is also located here to honour the memory of Peter. Further excavations in 1945 revealed a more ancient necropolis underneath the Basilica. It is believed that Peter’s true tomb, containing the body of a 60 year old man, was discovered there.

Vatican City

Swiss Guard with his flashy uniform.

After taking a few photos of the Swiss Guard and snickering about their flashy uniforms, Ashleigh and I tried to figure out how to get into Vatican City. Walking north from St. Peter’s Piazza through Porta Angelus, we followed the city wall, hoping to find an entryway. As we walked, we marvelled at the mighty walls that once defended the Vatican at the height of its power.

At one time, the Vatican was not just a holy city but the capital of a powerful state. Walls and fortifications were built to dissuade would-be invaders, and the Vatican employed its own army. The Pope owned most of central Italy, the Papal States, and over the centuries the Vatican became extremely wealthy. Opulent churches and palaces were built and priceless treasures were amassed, providing the major tourist attractions of today’s Vatican City.

In 1860, Victor Emmanuel II stripped the Vatican of all its power and land, conquering the Papal States and uniting all of Italy. When Prime Minister Benito Mussolini signed the The Lateran Treaty in 1929, the 0.44 km² of land within the walls of Vatican City became an independent state once again. The Vatican is currently the smallest country in the world!

Vatican Museum

At last we came upon the entrance to the Vatican Museum on Viale Vaticano. The museum is world famous for its priceless art and we were eager to lay our eyes on the treasures inside. Entry to the Vatican museums cost 16 euros and the lineup is usually pretty long, but it offers more than two dozen distinct collections with the Sistine Chapel as its climax. Before you enter the Vatican, you have to make sure to cover up those sexy legs and shoulders or the guards won’t let you in (they’re probably just jealous).

Entrance to Vatican Museum.

Passing through security, we climbed a spiral stairway and began our tour of the Vatican Museum. First, we explored the Pio-Clementino Museum, named after the two Popes who completed it: Clement XIV and Pius VI. Pio-Clementino’s rooms were filled with astonishingly life-like Greek and Renaissance sculptures, my favourite being the Hall of Animals. I could have spent hours in the Pio-Clementino Museum but we had barely started our tour of the Vatican and time was short.

Following the crowd, we passed through the Gregorian Egyptian Museum and out into the fresh air of Pinecone Courtyard. Named after a giant, bronze pinecone, the Cortile della Pigna was a nice place to escape the insane crowds and have lunch in the sunshine. The courtyard is a spacious, grassy area enclosed by the beautiful, papal palaces. The four-metre high pinecone on top of the Fontana della Pigna is a pre-Christian sculpture dating from the 1st century, symbolising regeneration. In the middle of Pinecone Courtyard is a hard-to-miss bronze ball, a massive, modern sculpture by Arnaldo Pomodoro. The “Sphere within a Sphere” looks like a huge, fractured, golden orb with working machinery inside. The sphere is supposed to symbolise the complexity and the fragility of our world, and is part of a collection that can be found in important locations around the globe.

Having restored our energy for more museum-ing, Ashleigh and I checked out the Chiaramonti Museum and Lapidary Gallery. The Lapidary Gallery is a “stone library” full of ancient text inscribed on stone. The gallery is usually closed to tourists, but I snapped a picture through the bars anyways. The Chiaramonti Museum is a long hallway filled with yet more Greek and Roman sculptures. I had fun trying to figure out which gods and emperors they were before I gave up and we climbed to the second floor.

On the floor above Pio-Clementino is the Gregorian Etruscan Museum displaying priceless artefacts from ancient Etruria. The Etruscan civilisation existed between 768 and 264 BC, before they were assimilated into the Roman Republic in the late 4th century. The museum holds eight galleries of Etruscan vases, sarcophagi, and bronze relics from antiquity.

The Etruscan Museum in the Vatican.

Climbing up to the third floor, we crossed the Gallery of Arazzi, covered with detailed, Flemish tapestries from the 1600s, and came to the Map Gallery. I really enjoyed studying these hand painted, Renaissance maps, covering every inch of the gallery’s wall space. Painted during the time of Pope Gregory XIII between 1580 and 1585, these maps represent Italian regions and papal properties. I was also amazed by the splendid stucco decorations and religious paintings that adorned the gallery’s arched ceiling.

Ashleigh in the Vatican Map Gallery.

Ashleigh and I were already tired, but there were still more fabulous works of art to see. Next were the resplendent Renaissance paintings of the Raphael Rooms, Nicoline Chapel and the Room of the Immaculate Conception. The walls and ceilings of these galleries depicted colourful pictures from history and legend. We spent hours gazing into paintings of chaotic battles and celestial scenes, each muscle, shadow and distant background displayed in remarkable detail.

Sistine Chapel

On our long but glorious journey through the Vatican Museum, I felt like each room grew steadily more beautiful leading to the Sistine Chapel— the climax of artistic ingenuity. As we entered this special room, we walked into a large crowd of tourists glancing around in awe and almost complete silence. The magnificent frescoes painted on the walls of the Sistine Chapel are essentially an illustrated version of the Holy Bible, depicting scenes from the creation of the world to Judgement Day. “The Last Judgement” is the most famous fresco in Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo on the altar wall. The mural depicts the return of Jesus Christ to take the righteous to heaven and the final judgement by God of all humanity. Another iconic image by Michelangelo is “The Creation of Adam” on the chapel ceiling, showing God reaching out to man. If you can’t visit the Sistine Chapel in person, the next best thing is to take a “virtual tour” on the Vatican Museum’s website.

The Papal Conclave has been a procedure for selecting the next Pope for almost a thousand years. Since 1492, the election of a new Pope has been decided within the Sistine Chapel. The College of Cardinals lock themselves inside the Sistine Chapel until a unanimous decision is made. After each vote, if a new Pope was not elected, damp straw would be burnt in a stove to produce black smoke. The public would carefully watch the chimney of the Sistine Chapel while the election took place. When a Pope was finally chosen, the Cardinals burnt the paper ballots to produce white smoke. In the past, this form of smoke signalling wasn’t entirely clear. For the 2005 conclave, a new stove was installed which held separate canisters of certain chemicals that would create more distinct colours. The stove was so complicated, however, that nobody knew how to operate it. Smoke started billowing into the Sistine Chapel, covering Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes which had been just recently restored.

Hundreds anxiously await the new Pope in St. Peter’s Square.

Conclusion

The treasures and monuments assembled by the Vatican over the centuries are amazing to witness. But more important than their treasures is the strong influence the Vatican, and Catholicism in general, has had on western culture. By using the vehicle of the Roman Empire, the Catholic Church became a ruling force in Europe and eventually the Americas. What westerners now accept as their culture were once rules and regulations developed by the Pope and his Cardinals. For example, history is organised either before or after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ (B.C. stands for “Before Christ” and A.D. means “Anno Domini”, in the year of the Lord). The Gregorian Calendar, used by most of the world today, was developed by Pope Gregory XIII. Popular festivals like Christmas and Easter are important Christian holidays. The Catholic Church has been responsible for founding most of the original universities and academic institutions. The laws and philosophies of western society are drawn from Christian values, the teachings of Jesus in the New Testament. From Emperor Constantine to the succeeding Popes of the Vatican, the mantle of Christianity and Catholicism has been passed on to the modern age. Despite one’s religious beliefs, Christianity roots deeply in the cultural mind of Europe and the Americas.

The Baptism of Constantine by Gianfrancesco Penni in the Vatican Museum.

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Throughout our European travels we have found evidence of the greatness of the Roman Empire; from Hadrian’s Wall in the misty isles of Britain as far as Ephesus on the Aegean shores of Turkey. Every church, every castle, and every European city we visited was built upon the foundations of Roman temples, forts, and towns. Roman language, culture, and technologies spread all across the western world and are still used today. Needless to say, I was ecstatic when at last we had arrived at the centre of it all, the birthplace of western civilisation, to which all roads once led: Rome.

Romulus and Remus

“Mars and Rhea Silvia” by Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640)

In days of yore (more specifically, 771 BC) twin boys destined for greatness were born to Rhea Silvia, daughter of King Numitor. Numitor ruled the land of Alba Longa until his treacherous younger brother, Amulius, usurped him. In order to secure his stolen kingship, Amulius slew Numitor’s sons and forced his daughter Rhea to become a Vestal virgin. Vestal virgins served the goddess Vesta and guarded their virginity, in the goddess’ honour, under punishment of death. Despite this oath, Rhea gave birth to Romulus and Remus, claiming it was Mars, the god of war, who had his way with her. When the usurper Amulius found out about Rhea’s broken vow, he had her drowned in the Tiber river. Having not the heart to murder the infants directly, Amulius put them in a basket and left them to drift on the river, allowing the wilderness to take care of them. The babies floated downstream until their basket was caught in a fig tree. From there the legends are unsure about who or what rescued the infants and suckled them, as the Latin word “lupa” means both she-wolf and prostitute. Either way, it was to Amulius’ misfortune that the twin boys survived the wild and when they had grown they slew the traitor Amulius, restoring Numitor to the throne.

A She-Wolf suckling Romulus and Remus. Frescoe by
Ludovico Carracci (1555–1619) in Palazzo Magnani, Bologna.

Founding of Rome

Instead of joining their grandfather in rule, Romulus and Remus founded their own citadel close to the fig tree that caught them on the Tiber river when they were babes. As equal rulers, Romulus and Remus argued about everything. Romulus wanted to build the city on Palatine hill while Remus thought it should be on Aventine. They then debated about whether it was more important to have a higher wall to defend the city or a thicker wall. Over time, Romulus understood that with the two of them ruling together as equals every decision he made would be disputed by his brother. Romulus made a hard decision and had his twin brother killed, thus positioning himself as sole ruler over the new kingdom. Rome was founded on the 21st of April, in 753 BC, named after its first sovereign, Romulus. Perhaps the murder of his brother was a necessary evil, as Rome rose to become one of the greatest empires of all time.

The scale model of Rome at the time of Constantine (306-337) created by Italo Gismondi between 1933 and 1937.

Seven Hills of Rome

Statue of Romulus and Remus being suckled by a she-wolf in Rome.

The story of Romulus and Remus has been accepted as Rome’s founding history and the image of a she-wolf suckling twin infants has become a symbol of the city. The Seven Hills Camping Village we stayed at during our time in Rome also uses the twin rulers and the wolf as their logo. The campground is named after the seven hills inside Rome, including Palatine hill where Romulus founded the city, and Aventine hill where Remus wanted it to be. These seven hills were once separate communities which eventually grew together to become the greater Rome.

We found a great deal at the Seven Hills Village staying in one of their many micro cabins. Offering a pizza place, restaurant, pool, and gym, Seven Hills made our stay in Rome comfortable for a very affordable price. There were no cooking facilities, but we had our own pot and stove to make our meals and a grocery store was a short walk away. Getting to Rome’s city centre was easy; Seven Hills had a free shuttle bus to La Giustiniana train station and a ticket downtown only cost one euro. Even though it was far away, the serenity of the campground was a respite from the bustling metropolis of Rome.

Our tiny cabin in Seven Hills Village.

Albanians in Italy

The train line from La Giustiniana took us as far as the Roma Ostiense train station, just south of the city centre. Here you can transfer to another line which will bring you into the heart of Rome, but we thought it would be nice to walk into it. We were glad we decided to get off at the Ostiense station because it put us in the Albanian district of Rome! We were able to stop in at an Albanian restaurant to get some breakfast and Turkish coffee before continuing on our walk. We passed a monument to the Albanian hero Skanderbeg, astride a stone warhorse, erected in the centre of Piazza Albania. Skanderbeg once served as a military commander for the Ottoman Empire, but later turned against the Ottomans, leading a rebellion within Albania and protecting it from invasion. For 25 years, from 1443 to 1468, Skanderbeg led an army of 10 000 against Ottoman forces, gaining victories against significantly larger odds. After his death in January 1468, many Tosk Albanians fled to southern Italy to escape eventual Ottoman occupation of Albania.

Skanderbeg, the Protector of Albania.

Circus Maximus

Continuing our stroll along Viale Aventino, we came upon the ruins of the Circus Maximus, the ancient origins of NASCAR racing. In antiquity, this mighty stadium held chariot races for the entertainment of the masses. It was the first and largest stadium in Roman history, measuring a length of 621 metres and could contain over 150 000 spectators. Chariot racing was incredibly dangerous for both drivers and horses, who often suffered serious injuries or death, but this only added to the excitement of the sport. The Circus Maximus (which I’m fairly certain means “big circle”) was also used for massive religious ceremonies, public feasts, plays, recitals, beast hunts, gladiator fights, and as a filming location for the movie “Ben Hur“.

The Circus Maximus, under some heavy restoration.

The Circus Maximus in its heyday. Painted by Viviano Codazzi and
Domenico Gargiulo in 1638.

We arrived at the most famous monuments in Rome, the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, but I knew we could easily spend a whole day exploring either one of those and it was already getting late. Exercising restraint, we passed by the historical wonders and continued meandering through the city centre.

Altar of the Fatherland

At Piazza Venezia we visited the imposing monument of Altare della Patria, built in honour of Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of a united Italy. The Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) is a glorious structure of shining, white marble, covered in sculptures of gods and heroes from myth and antiquity. It also contains the Unknown Soldier and the Eternal Flame, dedicated to unidentified soldiers and those lives lost in Italy’s wars. This monument is the largest in Rome and it is generally agreed to be the most obnoxious, earning it the nickname “Wedding Cake”. I personally enjoyed the various sculptures, crafted by artists from all over Italy, and the views of Rome from the Altare della Patria’s terrace.

Trajan Forum

What the Trajan Forum may have looked like.

Also close to Piazza Venezia is the Trajan Forum, the ruins of what was once a vibrant, city centre. A typical Roman forum was a combination business centre, marketplace, and meeting place. Trajan Forum was dedicated to Roman Emperor Trajan, one of the most beloved emperors in the history of Rome. Even though Trajan Forum is only a small off-shoot to the larger Roman Forum, historical records describe it as, “a construction unique under the heavens” (Ammianus Marcellinus 16.10.15). The most magnificent piece inside the forum is Trajan’s Column. There isn’t much left of the forum’s original structure, but Trajan’s Column has been left remarkably preserved. Exquisite carvings of Emperor Trajan’s past feats wind 30 metres up the gleaming white marble pillar.

Trevi Fountain

We continued our trek north through the sun-baked streets of Rome until we found relief at the glistening waters of the Trevi Fountain. Trevi was once the terminal point of the Aqua Virgo Roman aqueduct, a place where citizens would fill their vessels with cold, clean spring water. The Aqua Virgo aqueduct brought water all the way from Salone Spring, 21 kilometres into Rome’s historic centre.

The simple fountain was renovated near the end of the Italian Renaissance into the gloriously sculpted masterpiece seen today. The fountain’s baroque artistry depicts sea gods and goddesses, and the legend behind finding Salone spring, where General Agrippa‘s soldiers were led to it by a virgin girl.

It is estimated that 3000 euros are tossed into the fountain every day for love, marriage, and a chance to return to Rome. This tradition of coin tossing dates back to ancient times when citizens would throw offerings for Neptune into the fountain to grant them a safe sea voyage. In 2007 Ashleigh threw her own coin into Trevi Fountain and the magic brought her back to Rome eight years later! Unfortunately, this time around the fountain was under restoration and completely infested with scaffolding.

Spanish Steps

I didn’t understand what all the fuss was about the Spanish Steps until I saw them firsthand. The lovely, cobblestoned Piazza di Spagna opens up at the feet of this “mother of all grand staircases”. Three stairways, polished by millions of feet, climb the hill up to Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, forking to make room for two terraces. At the bottom of the steps is the Sinking Ship Fountain and at the top is the Sallustiano, a Roman copy of an Egyptian obelisk. The Spanish Steps are best seen in the spring when the entire staircase is wreathed in azaleas flowers.

At this point in the day it was starting to get late and Ashleigh was beginning to get “hangry” so we decided to head back to our 8×8 cabin in La Guistiniana. As lovely as the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain were, I was much more excited for the archaeological aspects of Rome, sites like the Colosseum and Roman Forum. Tomorrow couldn’t come soon enough.

Colosseum

The next day we stumbled out of our cramped cottage, caught the campground shuttle and two trains straight to the Colosseo metro stop. With so much to explore and no time to lose, we didn’t want to dilly-dally down random streets this time (as fun as that is). The Colosseum was calling.

You can buy a 12 euro ticket which covers the entry fee to the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum for two days. Scenes from movies like Gladiator and Spartacus were running through my head as we entered the amphitheatre and witnessed its grandeur. Even though a third of the Colosseum’s structure has been lost to earthquakes, storms, and stone-thieves, it is still easy to imagine what it once was.

The Colosseum 2015.

Back in the days before movies and video games, the Colosseum was the place to go for all-day entertainment. Animal fights occurred in the morning, criminal executions around midday and the popular gladiator battles in the afternoon. In 80 A.D. the Colosseum, the largest amphitheatre ever built, was open for business. 100 days of games were declared to the delight of the people,  hundreds of shows filled with the mass slaughter of man and beast locked in mortal combat.

What the Colosseum used to look like.

Both the rich and the poor were allowed to attend the Colosseum’s events, although each social class had its own entrance and seating area. The amphitheatre was built to hold 50 000 citizens but the crowd sometimes reached numbers as high as 80 000. Spectators were sheltered from the blistering heat by an ingenious set of awnings (called the Velarium) that could be manoeuvred to block the sun depending on the time of day. Underneath the battle arena of the Colosseum was the Hypogeum, an intricate system of tunnels and rooms used as a holding area. Winch mechanisms allowed props, animals, and gladiators to be brought up through the floor of the arena via 36 trap-doors.

Records show that over 9000 wild beasts were killed for sport during the first 100 days of the Colosseum’s games. Sometime the animals won the day when criminals were pitted against them and eaten alive (an entertaining form of execution). Bloody reenactments of Classical myths and historical battles were conducted by gladiators, including naval battles where they actually flooded and sailed ships inside the arena. The carnage continued for hundreds of years until the decline of Roman games before the early medieval age.  For all of its terror and bloodshed, the Colosseum’s shows would have been an awe-inspiring scene to witness.

Depiction of a victorious gladiator in the arena.

Roman Forum

During the rule of Romulus, the famous Roman Forum was only a swamp in between the Romans on Palatine Hill and the Sabines on Capitoline hill. In its humble beginnings, the brand new village of Rome was in dire need of women. Desperate, King Romulus ordered the capture of as many Sabine maidens as his men could handle. Outraged, the Sabine King Titus Tatius declared war on Rome, but as the enemy armies clashed, the stolen Sabine women flung themselves and their children between them. The captured women already had families with the Roman men and would not stand by while their fathers and husbands killed each other. Seeing no other option, Romulus and the Sabine king decided to unite their countries and rule together.

“Rape of the Sabine Women”, depicting the events between early Rome and the Sabines.

Once the Sabine state merged with Rome, the king had the swamp between their hills drained and a meeting place was built to join the two peoples. For many years it was a marketplace, but eventually the Forum transformed into a political, religious, and civic centre and the most important site in Rome. Over the centuries, the Roman Forum was jam-packed with a disorganised mess of sacred temples, administrative buildings and monuments.

The Roman Forum, 2015.

The oldest Latin inscription ever found in the supposed Tomb of Romulus, under the Lapis Niger.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Roman Forum fell into ruin and became known as the “Campo Vaccino” (cow field). A lot of the building material was “re-purposed” (stolen) until now there’s not much to see but leftover pillars and foundations.

As we walked through the Forum, there were a lot of diagrams and signs explaining each dilapidated site, allowing you to picture what the Forum looked like in its glory days. The temples of Saturn, Vesta, and Castor and Pollux have a few pillars still standing, now mere monuments to the old gods. The Triumphal Arches of Titus and Septimius Severus stand in remarkable condition, celebrating the generals’ military victories. Beautifully carved, marble reliefs represent episodes from these wars, and the Triumphal Arches stand powerfully against the elements of time. The best preserved, ancient building in the Forum is the Curia, house of the Roman Senate. The Curia survived all these years only because it was converted into a church after Roman paganism converted to Christianity. Just outside of the Curia is a large slab of black marble which, according to legend, is the tomb of Romulus, Rome’s founder. Excavations of this “tomb” uncovered many animal bones from ritual sacrifice and the oldest Latin inscription ever found. The inscription has been translated as a dedication to a king and a curse to anyone who disturbs his grave. A large part of the inscription is missing so we may never know exactly what this sacred site means.

Palatine Hill

Overlooking the Roman Forum and the Circus Maximus is Palatine Hill, the birthplace of Rome. Archaeologists have excavated and proven that the original settlement built by King Romulus began on the summit of Palatine. Understanding that Palatine was an important site in Roman history, various Emperors built their own Palaces and Estates upon this hill. It is theorised that the word “palace” actually derives from the name “Palatine”.

Various palaces on Palatine Hill, before their destruction.

As it is with Romes’ other grand monuments, stone-robbers had their way with the empty palaces after the Roman Empire expired. The walls were stripped of its expensive marble and the once brightly coloured frescoes faded. All that’s left of these opulent palaces, once the epitome of luxury, are their crumbling, brick skeletons. Today, the palace complex is covered in rose gardens and greenery. It was a wonderful way to end our day of exploring, surveying the core of ancient Rome below us as Kings and Emperors must have. We relaxed in this garden of peace and harmony, content with what we’d seen and learned in Rome with the short time that we had.

The western world would have been a very different place without the Roman Empire. Nearly everything we have comes from the Romans: our language, government, plumbing, military, calendar, currency, concrete, architecture, alphabet and so much more. Although some aspects of Roman society were brutal and barbaric, it was incredibly advanced for its time. The world will never forget the glory of Rome.

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Between the beautiful architecture and delicious wines (just outside the city you will find the Chianti wine region) tourism has become the major driver of the Florentine economy. Florence, or Firenze in Italian, has been at the front of the pack economically for centuries; in fact in the Middle Ages it was the centre for Medieval finance and trade. All that wealth was put to artistic use and the city is considered to be la culla del Rinascimento, “the cradle of the Italian Renaissance” for a very good reason.

Santa Maria Novella

You can easily spend numerous trips slowly getting acquainted with the charms of Florence. I had visited Florence a good ten years previously as a teenager and the markets, squares, and bridges sparkled in my memory. I couldn’t wait to drag Nathanael around to the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, and Corridoio Vasariano! We threw up our tent at a HI hostel and set off to explore this treasure of Tuscany.

I see it!

Taking our time we slowly wound our way through the streets, checking out all the high fashion that Florence prides itself on, making our way towards the Piazza del Duomo. Florence’s flair for fashion dates way back when at the start of the 14th century Florence found itself at the centre of textile production for all of Europe. Today, well-known designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Emilio Pucci, and Gucci  have their headquarters in Florence, and many more have major offices and stores in and around the city.

The square was humming with activity in the afternoon sun. Light gleamed off of the iconic pink, white, and green marble facade of the Duomo and its campanile (bell tower). The complex of Santa Maria del Fiore,  as the collection is known, is comprised of the Santa Maria del Fiore (the “Duomo”, third largest church in the world!) with the crypt of Santa Reparata beneath, the Baptistry of San Giovanni in front, and Giotto’s Bell Tower beside. The baptistry was under renovation when we visited unfortunately, making it difficult to take nice pictures, but the complex is incredible to walk around. The sheer size and grandeur of the Gothic-style Duomo stunned me, and the close quarters of the surrounding buildings make it nearly impossible to take everything in at once.  The Opera Duomo Museum is tucked behind the Duomo itself and features beautiful works of art by the likes of Donatello, Michelangelo, and others that were originally displayed in the complex buildings. Visiting the Duomo is free, and while much of its decoration has been relocated to the Grande Museo del Duomo it’s still a lovely cathedral. Tours are available to take you up to the balconies and you can opt to climb the bell tower and visit the baptistry too (purchase the whole package here).

The Piazza della Signoria is probably one of the most iconic images of Florence, second only perhaps to the Duomo. The square has been the centre of political life in Florence since the 14th century and has seen some of the major events of the city’s long history, including the return of the Medici (a prominent banking family) in 1530 after a period of exile and the Bonfire of the Vanities in 1497, a public burning of cosmetics, books, and other objects deemed “sinful” at the time. The Palazzo Vecchio is a palace-fortress overlooking the square, a position that has been a prominent cultural fixture since Roman times when an ancient theatre from the 1st century occupied the space.

Palazzo Vecchio

Sculptural and statue work adorns the square, and a copy of Michelangelo’s David (the original is in the Accademia Gallery) watches over the entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio. After seeing the fortress, the Loggia dei Lanzi is the perfect spot for a rest and to take in the scene. It’s an open-air sculpture gallery designed by Orcagna in 1376, and it’s free! You can find a variety of masterpieces in this open-air gallery, including the gory statue of Perseo by Benvenuto Cellini, a bronze sculpture of the Greek hero Perseus holding up Medusa’s severed head commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in the 16th century. One of my favourites is the Fontana di Nettuno, the Fountain of Neptune.  Also commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici, it was sculpted by Bartolomeo Ammannati and apparently not initially appreciated by the Florentines who dubbed it “the white giant”. I like it though!

A little off the beaten track, you can find the home of one of Florence’s most famous residents, an individual whose works have continued to inspire art, literature, and cinema to this day. Florence was home to Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy, an epic poem that continues to influence culture today and forever changed how we view heaven and hell. We had previously visited the cave that supposedly inspired his famous work in Slovenia, and so Nathanael was overjoyed that we could visit his house! While the house itself has changed significantly over centuries of expanding, remodelling, and renovating, today you can visit the Dante’s House Museum to learn a little about his life and works.

Our last stop, perfectly timed with the setting sun, was the Ponte Vecchio (“Old Bridge”). This was the only bridge across the Arno in Florence until 1218, and was the only bridge in Florence that fleeing Germans did not destroy in World War II. While shopping was not the original purpose of the bridge, the covered shops have been around from the 13th century and give the Ponte Vecchio its’ unique, romantic look. Originally the shops consisted mostly of butchers, tanners, fishmongers, and the like, but this was deemed too smelly (seriously) and in 1593 Ferdinand I declared that only goldsmiths and jewellers could house their shops on the bridge. Today it remains as beautiful a spot as ever to do a little shopping or to just enjoy a stroll over the river.

Ponte Vecchio, check out those shutters!

It felt bittersweet to see the sun set over the Ponte Vecchio, knowing that tomorrow we would be leaving Florence behind. Who knows, maybe we’ll find our way back to Florence one day. In the mean time, we were off to one of the most well-known cities in the world, Rome!

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Bologna is known by many names because it’s a city with a high reputation. It is called “La Grassa” (the fat one) for its famous rich and fatty cuisine. A view from one of its many towers will show you why “La Rossa” (the red one) perfectly describes the earthy hues of Bologna. The nickname “La Dotta” (the learned one) tips a cap to the University of Bologna, the oldest operating university in the world. With all of this acclaim and more, Bologna has a lot to be proud of.

As per usual, Ashleigh and I had booked the cheapest room possible through airbnb as a home base for our Bologna tours. We arrived in the evening and headed straight for our apartment in Bolognina (little Bologna), a neighbourhood just north of the city. Our punk rocker roommate was friendly enough, and we shared a queen-sized bunk-bed that he had cleverly built himself to save space (we got lower bunk). Dumping our unwieldy luggage, we hit the town to do a bit of night exploring and hopefully find some delicious Bolognese food.

From what I remember, we managed to find our way to the University of Bologna on the east side of town, and it was not what I expected. The area of town all around the campus was graffitied and grungy. Punk and goth-styled students were milling about in groups, smoking, drinking and listening to heavy metal. For some reason I thought the oldest university in the world would be all class but instead it was all sass and attitude. I later realised that the old university was nowhere near the new one.

Inside the centre of the historic district, the Archiginnasio is the oldest original university building in Bologna. Though the Archiginnasio centre was built in the 16th century, the University of Bologna was founded as early as 1088. It may not be the oldest educational institution of all time, but UNIBO lays claim to the origin of the term “University”. Universitas magistrorum et scholarium is Latin for “community of teachers and scholars”, a place of learning that caught on not just in Italy but around the world. The modern University of Bologna still thrives in the Palazzo Poggi as well as 11 other schools around Italy, including one in Buenos Aires.

We wandered aimlessly for a few hours, spying mighty medieval towers, grand plazas and majestic fountains. The night felt old (at least for us) and grabbing a quick snack from a local pizzeria we turned in for the evening. The tiny part of Bologna we had glimpsed so far made us excited for tomorrow’s adventures.

The first thing I noticed in the harsh, beating sun of the next morning were all the porticoes. God bless the city planners for implementing these stylish shelters from the sun. 38 kilometre lengths of permanent canopies were built a 1000 years ago throughout Bologna’s historic district, still providing shade for pedestrians centuries later.

So many porticoes.

Following along these shaded pathways, we walked into the Quadrilatero, the old market district of Bologna. In this section of the city you can find all the rich foods Bologna is known for. Market stalls line the Quadrilatero’s cramped streets selling vegetables and merchandise, while the salumerie shops offer cold cuts, fresh pastas and rare cheeses. When in Italy don’t pass up the fresh pasta; it’s cheap, and ten times tastier then your typical dried macaroni.

Our next stop had to be one of the many rectangular, medieval skyscrapers we had been seeing all over town. If you think the leaning tower of Pisa is one of a kind, let me tell you, these Bolognese towers don’t look structurally sound either. Nevertheless, we decided to brave the creaky, spiralling wooden staircase up to the top of the tallest tower to get awesome views of red-hued Bologna. There are around 20 of these magnificent, brick towers all throughout Bologna’s old town, a mere collection compared to the array that stood in the middle ages. In the 12th and 13th century, up to 180 of these building were constructed and no one is quite sure why. They may have been used as a form of defence between Italian nobles, or it was just another way to show off (perhaps they were compensating for something). It could take up to ten years to build one of these structures so, whatever the reason, let’s hope it was a good one. Once the fad of owning your own tower ceased, most of them were demolished to make room for “downtown revitalisation”. The few that stand today have been turned into houses, hotels, or convenient viewpoints for tourists.

A view of Piazza Ravegnana from the top of Asinelli Tower.

An artist’s depiction of what Bologna might have looked like in the Middle Ages.

While wandering Bologna, you will eventually end up in the main Piazza Maggiore, just as we did. This beautiful plaza is flanked by marvellous buildings, including the colossal Basilica di San Petronio. Dominating Piazza Maggiore, the Basilica holds 22 chapels and is the 10th largest church in the world (by volume). The marble facade, started in 1538, was never completed and only creeps up halfway, revealing the Basilica’s brick construction. Despite its shortcomings, the multi-coloured marbles and sculptures are impressive. The interior of San Petronio’s Basilica is simple yet elegant, with red pillars stretching into the vaulted ceiling like a tree canopy. We noticed, embedded in the exquisite, mosaic floor was a meridian line, designed by an astronomer from the university in order to determine the length of each solar year.

Besides the Basilica di san Petronio, the main square of Maggiore is surrounded by four “Palazzos” (palaces) of great importance. West is the Palazzo d’Accursio, the former city hall and now a civic art museum. Palazzo dei Notai, south west of the piazza, was once a notaries’ guild built in 1278. East is the Palazzo dei Banchi, a renaissance styled palace and former banking centre. To the north of Maggiore is Palazzo del Podestà, a former police and justice office built in 1200. Directly behind and connected to the Palazzo del Podestà is the Palazzo Re Enzo, built after Podesta as the “new palace” and residence of the King. Too many palaces in my opinion, but they are each uniquely beautiful and open for visitors.

Although we were already exhausted from a day of touring, there was still one journey left to make. On top of a forested hill, overlooking the city, is the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. A chapel has existed upon Monte della Guardia for one thousand years, but the one you see today was only built in 1723. It is said that, in the 12th century, a pilgrim from the Byzantine empire brought a sacred icon from the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople to Bologna. This icon of the virgin Mary and Jesus was said to have been painted by Luke the Evangelist himself, so it was very precious. The bishop of Bologna assigned the icon to the chapel on Guardia Hill and it has been guarded there ever since. A 3.4 kilometre stretch of the world’s longest set of porticoes wind down the hillside from the chapel to the medieval gate Porta Saragozza. The porticoes, which took 100 years to build, were designed to shield pilgrims from the elements as they made their journey up to the holy icon. We have enjoyed several other European pilgrimages in the past, like Saint Erik’s Pilgrimage in Uppsala, even Mostar’s Hum Hill, and we loved every minute of the hike up to the Madonna di San Luca. There isn’t a great a view of Bologna from the top of Gaurdia hill, but the rolling, Italian countryside is breathtaking. We spent the rest of the afternoon at the summit, exploring the chapel and gazing out at the scenery as the sun began to set. It was a long walk back to our apartment, but we were very satisfied with our time in Bologna.

Bologna is a city tourists often forget, but it has a lot to offer. It contains Europe’s second largest historical centre filled with magnificent Medieval, Baroque, and Renaissance monuments. It is the inventor of world-renowned pastas and sauces, rich cuisine that cause you to drool at the mere thought of them. The original University was founded in Bologna, hosting some of the most prestigious scholars of history and still thriving to this day. This is why Bologna is known by many names; it offers the best of everything.

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